One of the first events of New York Fashion week was the Arise Magazine Fashion Show that took place on the day of love—February 14^th (clarification for the non-romantic). The best thing about Arise is that they bring to the forefront a smorgasbord of African talent unseen in the covers of Vogue. Like….

Black Coffee- Fall 2010

Black Coffee a South African. The duo of designers was obviously enamored by fabrics this season, as coats had layers upon layers of cloth. Coats were paired with every outfit and often were the main entente. Color palette: beige, light blue and brown—not a far cry from their Spring collection, but less girly cuts.

Black Coffee- Summer 2010

We also had Loincloth and Ashes at Arise from the Tanzanian designer, Anisa Mpungwe. Three words: Inspired. Fun. Embellished.

Referred by Vogue as his “strongest—and crucially, most rounded—to date [collection]“, designer Bibhu Mohapatra really did his thing this season. An ode to old-Hollywood glamour, this collection was simply stunning. It says a lot when a man can understand the importance of not only feeling but looking like a women, without being overly sexy.

Another gold star winner– in my factitious awards– is Naeem Khan. The Indian-born designer gained popularity last year with The First lady, Michelle Obama, wearing his gown at the state dinner. His gowns are stunning, glamorous and somehow exude confidence… clearly why Michelle rocks his pieces.

AHHH! The memories. And so, come with me along this journey to mistakes trends past, that lay to rest.

1. Logo Bags– Just in case you forgot where you dropped the $400+ on your tiny clutch purse, we had logos galore as reminders.

2. Name plate jewelry– Seen as ‘hood’ in the 80s this trend was resurrected by Ms. Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City.

3. Louis Vuitton ANYTHING

4. Velour Suits– I have to admit, this had to be the comfiest trend of the decade and HELL YES…I still rock my velor pants when working out or in the house. Why not constantly remind myself via the buttocks of how ‘Juicy’ I am or that someone used to call me ‘Babygirl’.

5. Platform Sandals– I thought this was just a Florida thing, but apparently this ran like wildfire. I have fond memories of begging my mother in Ross for the last pair in my size…..wonder what ever happened to those….

6. Excessive Bling– Because if you’re going to wear over priced jewelry that could probably give a free meal to every child  in your long-lost hood’ you rep all the time….why not go all out.

7. Fly Girl Onesies– Another one of J.Lo’s mind games that we fell for, like buying “On the 6″.

8. Amy Winehouse hair bumps– Had to class this up with Kerry Washington pic, but if I see one more episode of “Bridezillas” with someone requesting this look from their hairdresser, I’m going to SCREAM.

9. Chinese Slippers– HA. Thats all.

10. Von Dutch hats

11. Uggs with Skirts– You saw it. I saw it. Don’t act like women of all colors and ages weren’t doing this.

12. Cowboys Boots

13. Melissa Sneakers– I loathed these shoes. Not only were they unsanitary, but I lost friends, because I totally judged everyone that wore these. Great thing I’m self-actualized and can talk about the same on a general scale now.

14. Jersey Dresses

15. Gladiator Sandals– It was only summer 2008 when the Greek gods overtook our bodies and possessed us to go to Macy’s and buy this extraordinary ugly sandal. Thank God for changes in fashion seasons!

It’s soo amazing how fashion, often criticized as being frivolous, has such a huge impact on the world and generations ahead. Designers never know the depth and greatness their works will grow and somehow volunteering at a homeless shelter reminded me of this.

While sorting through a pile of women’s sweaters to organize for homeless patrons (shout out to the Bowery Mission in the Lower East Side) I ran across a familiar print. Soft as a baby blanket but funky in print as one of Dr. Huxtable’s famous sweaters,I looked at the tag and low-and-behold it was a WILLI SMITH piece!

I freaked, because only in my fashion classes had I heard about this African-American high-fashion legend. Never had I actually touched one of his pieces.

Clearly I take this ish serious.

Before I or anyone in my generation was a glimmer in our parents eyes, Willi Smith was taking the fashion industry over by storm. Born in Philadelphia, he attended Parsons School of Design in 1965 on a scholarship. After years of trial and error lines, apprenticeships and traveling the globe, he was able to partner with Laurie Mallett and successfully run “WilliWear”. This sportswear line is where this abandoned piece I was holding was birthed.

Smith was a design inspiration to the fashion houses of the day including Perry Ellis, Christian Dior and Chanel and close friend Betsey Johnson. Like a mild version of Koos van den Akker’s work, Smith pieces are most memorable from the entire cast wardrobe of School Daze, which he designed.
At the height of his career his sportswear company grossed $25 million in sales, his clothing appeared in more than 500 department stores, he won an American Fashion Critics’ Coty Award for women’s fashion, and a Cutty Sark Award for Men’s Fashion in 1985. All this being HUGE accomplishments for a designer…nevermind a black man…for back in the day.

His death in 1987 was a bit of a mystery at the time. Even announcing it two days after his passing, investigators still had no idea that the pneumonia he died from was a result of AIDS.

One thing that was no mystery was the source of his inspiration. He always said that he designed for regular people with that sixth sense of fashion, ”I don’t design clothes for the Queen, but for the people who wave at her as she goes by.”

The beauty of it all is that the story of Willi Smith doesn’t end.

Remarkable designers always seem to live on through exclusive runways shows of Paris….or just in a messy bin at a homeless shelter.

In my mind I’m saying…’well damn! It’s a recession, who said I can afford $50 on a shirt.’ For those of you who can’t relate BE GONE! But for those of you who are actual, true-blue recessionistas I got something for you!

In my good deed of the week, I decided to peruse the clearance sections of neighborhood stores to see what the best buys really were. I gotta say, I was quite surprised. On one hand money does designate a level of quality, that shouldn’t be compromised. But there are just some deals that can’t be beat. Why not buy a piece  for the cheap-cheap, that will last just as long and you’ll still look good wearing.

Lets start from head——>toe

Ralph Lauren Aviators- $89 at Bloomingdales

Target Aviators- $11 at Target

Juicy Couture Jackie-O’s Sunglasses- $145 Bloomingdales

Target Jackie-O’s Sunglasses- $12

Diane von Furstenberg Wrap Dress- $400 at Neiman Marcus

Walmart Wrap Dress- $20 at Walmart.com

Kincross  Cashmere Sweater- $200 at Sierra Trading Post

Target Button-Up Sweater- $20 at Target

Cole Haan Braided Belt- $125 at Cole Haan

Kmart Braided Double Belt- $7 at Kmart.com

Xhilaration Suede Boot- $20 at Target

Honestly, I couldnt find any boots to compare this one to. But they were so darn cute and inexpensive I had to let y’all know about them.

The moral of the story is: In any season and through any financial condition, there is always a way to look and feel good. I’ve been known to tear up a Goodwill or Salvation army with a 20 dollar bill. It really isnt about how much the cost is, it’s about expressing yourself and achieving your look, the look that makes you an individual. And if you have money to splurge, mix and match, there are still amazing pieces at neighborhood thrift stores that set your cookie cutter designer outfit apart.

“Fashion fades, only style remains the same.”

- Coco Chanel

Fashion Week is here and celebs kicked off the festivities with Paper Magazine last night.

Amerie

Chanel Iman with boyfriend/model Chris Smith

Kanye West and Amber Rose

Queen Latifah

Will.i.am.

Naomi Sims the stunning 5’10 dark-skinned Mississippian, passed on August 1st at the age of 61. Referred to as the first black super model, Sims was a walking anomaly gracing the covers of many popular fashion publications. Her along with Dorothea Towles Church and Donyale Luna were the only black women at the time to accomplish similar feats.

Working and trying to gain a career during the Black is Beautiful movement proved difficult in an industry previous run and imaged by whites. She not only had to stand out for her unique beauty, but fight pressures of mainstream culture to morph her into an oversexualized, urban puppet.

Sims bio/obtuary can be found in a wonderful piece by The New York Times. 

Instead of breaking her amazing life story down I think its more important to analyze the sugar in the pudding.

Young people, in almost every arena are fighting to get jobs and create careers during this recession (hate the r-word). Cover letters, resumes, the right suit, the right attitude all usually get jobs…unless it’s a time such as this. Many get discouraged.

But then you have stories and people to reference. Reminders that among all the pressures and challenges of the world, there’s still hope that careers can be obtained if not created on your own.

AND being the first post of this blog, it seems appropriate to acknowledge Ms. Sims and adversity, standing out in the crowd while looking royal at the same time.